Caring for bromiliad

Discussion in 'HortForum' started by carogirl, Jun 1, 2005.

  1. I live in South Carolina, where summers are hot and winter temps drop to around 32 degrees f. I currently have my bromiliad on the screened in porch where it it is thriving, catching the morning sun. What should I do with it in the winter?
     
  2. Eryngiums-R-Us

    Eryngiums-R-Us Member

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    Location:
    Seatac, WA (Sunset Zone 5)
    FYI: Bromeliad
    Hi,
    I live around Seattle, WA. I still have several bromeliads outside, but will bring them inside once the nightime temps average near 45F (this week, no doubt!). This also goes for the palm seedlings, bananas, sansaveria ("snake plants") and a couple of other "tropical" plants. (NOTE: I did manage to grow a couple Bromels outside a few years (USDA Zone 8/Sunset Zone 5) until they got zapped by a cold snap (28F) in 2003 -- however, I have successfully grown "spider plants" outside in sun/shade for 4 years -- providing they are mulched with 2-3" straw/leaves... but I digress...).

    [_] You may want to start "acclimating" your plants to a return inside for the winter by moving them into some sort of sheltered environment (like a breezeway or garage) for a week or two, before assigning them winter quarters.

    [_] Also, you will want to check for any vagabond pests -- although bromels usually don't have many beasties that prey on them.

    [_] Once inside, provide bright indirect light, as direct sunlight may burn leaves.

    [_] If possible, manipulate the humidity by placing a saucer (tray) with a layer of pea gravel & H2O. The gravel will help evaporate the H2O, so there will be a little more humidity around the bromels. I find I can do this better by grouping humidity-requiring plants in a bunch & misting a couple times a day. Keep the soil

    [_] Re: fertilizing -- if you have access to some worm compost (castings aka "worm poo"), you can top dress (i.e., put on top of the soil surface) with about 1/2" once or twice during their indoors detention. This will provide sloooooow release nutrients that won't (usually) cause excessive winter growth -- although their is nothing wrong with that. (Hint: mix some coir with the castings to give it easy spreadability)

    [_] Propagation: if your bromeliad has spiked & bloomed, then it is a goner. But not to worry, because as the "mother plant" slowly dies, it will most likely start producing offsets (or "pups") around its base. Allow these offset (aka clones) to get about 1/3 as big as the parent plant, then with a sharp knife (clean -- rinsed in rubbing alcohol & H2O), make a parallel cut between parent & offset and detach the offset. Try to get some roots with the offset if possible (you can check for this by washing the soil from the parent plant before starting). I found that the more I can "harvest" offsets, the more offsets will be produced. Pot up offsets in an equal mix of coir/peat moss, sand and (if you like) some potting soil, keep slightly moist, and provide bottom heat (if you like), which will help with root development. There is no need to fertilize until next year. Of course, mixing in a little worm compost will be a plus. But, once again, I digress....

    Please let me know if you have any questions about this info.
    Cheers, LW
    UBC0001
     
  3. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

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    Location:
    WA USA (Z8)
    Used to be some asparagus ferns on the south side of Nordic Heritage Museum (Ballard) as well. Maybe they are still there.

    Spellcheck: Sansevieria.
     

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