My little lemon tree :(

Discussion in 'Citrus' started by paladin16, Jan 12, 2008.

  1. paladin16

    paladin16 Member

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    I bought a little lemon tree sprout from a plant catalog last year (Burgess Plants co.). According to the catalog, and others that sell the same dwarf lemon tree, the tree should blossom and produce fruit within 12 months. It seems though, that it has stopped growing. It stopped growing maybe 3 months ago? It went through about two growth spurts since I got it. So it's about a foot or more tall. It's at a south facing window. I transplanted it before Christmas into a bigger pot and used potting soil. It was close to a furnace but now it's in my room. My house is heated by a wood stove....so it's pretty dry now in the winter. But, I'm also worried I might be over watering it. Today I cleaned out an old insect spray bottle and used it to mist my plant with H2O. I'm going to wait awhile before watering again. I use a miracle grow spike to fertilize it sometimes. I read that it needs more acidic soil. Is there a brand in Michigan I could find at Wal-mart or Miejer? I saw acidic formula at miejers yesterday....I think it said it was for azelias, hydrangeas, and other acid lovers....I think I remember that the nitrogen amount was 30%. I don't think I'll be able to find a citrus fertilizer in the frozen north of Michigan. I'm having other troubles with my plant...the tips on some of the leaves are turning yellow and then brown...but just on the tips. Also, I'm noticing some of the leaves look like they're bug eaten...but there is a lack of bugs..the only thing that could live in Michigan inside is fruit flies and I've never heard of them munching on plants. The leaves are mostly a dark green some are a little bit lighter- the sick ones. None of the leaves have fallen off yet. I really want to keep my plant healthy...even if it doesn't bloom this year. So if anyone has any ideas I'd really appreciate it. Thanks! Hannah

    p.s -I don't know the tree's breed but I think you can see an image of it on the catalogs website. Also, there doesn't seem to be any bugs under the leaves.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2008
  2. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    I have doubts about their claim of blooming in 12 mo., but citrus trees do grow in spurts as you described. Growth is typically slower in winter. Don't water unless the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry. Spike are not the best fertilizer. Try to find slow release Osmocote or Dynamite with minor elements and a NPK ratio as close to 5-1-3 as you can.

    The brown tips sounds like salt buildup-- next time it needs water, flush the soil thoroughly(let water flow through it at least 10-15 min). Also soil should be very coarse --lots of air and fast draining (like 4 parts pine bark--1 part peat moss).

    For a beginner, it actually sounds like you have done pretty good.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2008
  3. paladin16

    paladin16 Member

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    Thanks for your quick reply skeeterbug,
    I'm new to this npk thing what exactly does it mean? Also, do pine needles help? My neighbor, who is a famous gardener, asked if I had any pine needles at my house to put near the base of her blue berries.

    Thanks, Hannah
     
  4. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    One of the trees problems is the potting soil that you are using. The typical potting soil that is sold at retail nurseries and garden centers is mostly peat moss with a little perlite mixed in. This is NOT a good medium to use for citrus. The medium compacts with each watering. After six months of watering common potting soils compact to the point where the porosity and soil oxygen are lost. Compaction also causes the carbon dioxide given off by the roots to build up to toxic levels. Root growth begins to slow down and soon stops, and finally growth for the entire tree comes to a halt. Unless you change the growth medium to one with high aeration, and EXCELLENT drainage, your tree will die. The present potting soil that the tree is now growing in is reaching toxic levels of soluble salts. The burnt leaf tips and margins are a results of the high soluble salt levels. Evidently, you have not flushed the root zone of this tree in a long while. A good medium to plant your tree in is a blend of 4 parts pine park, 1-part peat moss and 1 part COARSE sand. Another excellent medium is 4 parts coconut husk chips (CHC) and one part peat moss. Stop using fertilizer spikes. Fertilize the tree with a good water soluble fertilizer a minimum of once a month. Use a good NPK full blend fertilizer that also contains trace minerals. Lastly do not try to befriend the tree by planting it in a container that is too large for the root system. When you water the tree, water the tree thoroughly until 10 percent of the water applied drains out the bottom holes. Then do not water again until the top couple inches of soil feels rather dry. Hopefully this little tree will make it.

    NPK = N means nitrogen, P means phosphorus, K means potassium. You can find these listed on the fertilizer label. Try to find a NPK ratio as close to 5-1-3 as possible. - Millet
     
  5. paladin16

    paladin16 Member

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    Thank you millet,
    When I first got my tree in the mail I think I put him in garden/prarie soil...which works with all my other plants. He seemed to like it because he grew so much. It was only till recently that I replanted him in the potting soil...it seemed like one of his leaves was getting browned before that. My questions are thus..

    *Should I keep him in the same pot but with the new soil?
    *Should I get him a smaller pot with the new soil?
    *Can I use ANY variety of pine tree for the bark or just the long needled kind?
    *I'm not sure where to find peat moss right now...would it be ok to substitute the *potting soil I'm using right now for the 1 part peat moss?
    *should I put a high concentration of the bark near the bottom of the pot for better drainage?
    *Lastly, won't re-re-potting him stress him out?
     
  6. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    *Should I keep him in the same pot but with the new soil? How Big is the current pot?


    *Can I use ANY variety of pine tree for the bark or just the long needled kind?--Any kink of conifer bark will do-- pines, cedar, juniper, cypress.


    *I'm not sure where to find peat moss right now...would it be ok to substitute the potting soil I'm using right now for the 1 part peat moss? -- Yes that will do fine.

    *should I put a high concentration of the bark near the bottom of the pot for better drainage? -- No, just maintain a 4:1 mix throughout the pot.

    *Lastly, won't re-re-potting him stress him out?-- No, not if you are careful and do not damage the roots. I have transplanted many and never see any sign of stress.

    Skeet
     
  7. paladin16

    paladin16 Member

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    Thanks Skeet,
    I will be sure to do that. I moved him from his smaller pot because I thought that was what the trouble was. His pot is maybe two to three times bigger, but, it looks about the right size for a plant his size. I can try to put pictures of him (and his pot) on...maybe then I can figure out what breed he is too.
    Hannah
     
  8. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    If it is a true lemon, the leaves will be bronze colored when they first appear, I do not know if that characteristic applies to meyer lemons as I do not yet have one growing(I don't think so), maybe one of the forum member that has one can answer that.

    Skeet
     

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